China New Cosmetic Ingredient Notification: The Current Situation
Starting from May 1, 2021, China has implemented a notification system for general cosmetics and low-risk new cosmetic ingredients.
Under the new system, as long as companies completed the submission of dossiers online, their new cosmetic ingredients are considered as “notified” and then can be manufactured or imported. There is no longer a pre-market review on notification dossiers, instead, the basic notification information will be made public within five working days after the submission.
How many new cosmetic ingredients and cosmetic products have been notified during the past months? What kind of ingredient or product information has been disclosed to the public?
ChemLinked summarizes and shares the details as follows:
1. New Cosmetic Ingredients
According to the NMPA\’s website, twelve new cosmetic ingredients have been publicized so far, eight are from Chinese companies and four are from overseas companies. Although twelve ingredients only, it is a huge step forward for China as only eight new cosmetic ingredients were approved from 2009 to April 2021. It can be estimated that the industry will see a great increase in the number of notified new cosmetic ingredients.
The website discloses the following information about the twelve new cosmetic ingredients to the public:
- The standard Chinese name of the ingredient
- Notification number
- Name of the notifier (Chinese & English)
- Address of the notifier
- Region/country of the notifier
- Name of the responsible person in China
- Address of the responsible person in China
- Status, e.g., in the monitoring period
- Inspection status after notification
- Notification Date
- Technical requirements of the ingredient, e.g., INCI name, CAS number, ingredient’s origin, ingredient’s traits, physicochemical properties, the maximum concentration, applicable scope, etc.
- Notes
The noteworthy information of the twelve ingredients is shown in the table below:
| INCI Name | CAS No. | Purpose of Use | Applicable Scope | The Maximum Concentration | Notified Date | Notified Company |
| Acetylneuraminic Acid | 131-48-6 | Moisturizer | Whole-body skin | ≤2% | 2021/6/28 | Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co.,Ltd. |
| Lauroyl Alanine | 52558-74-4 | Cleansing agent | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤20% | 2021/6/28 | Suzhou Weimei Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
| β-Alanyl Hydroxyprolyldiaminobutyroyl Benzylamide | Skin protectant | 1. Rinse-off products: cleansing products and massage products
2. Leave-on products: toner, lotion, mask, etc. 3. Make-up: foundation |
0.00001%-1.0% | 2021/8/6 | Shenzhen Winkey | |
| Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata | Antioxidants | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤4% | 2021/8/13 | Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., Ltd. | |
| Tetrafluoropropene | 29118-24-9 | Propellant | 1. Leave-on products: skin cosmetics, hair care cosmetics
2. Rinse-off products: skin cosmetics, hair care cosmetics |
≤90% | 2021/12/2 | Honeywell International Inc. |
| Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate | 928663-45-0 | Cleansing agent | Shampoo, bath products, facial cleansing products and other cleansing cosmetics (Not to be used in eye products) | ≤11% | 2021/12/8 | Innospec (Beijing) Inc. |
| Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl Dimethicone | 1466529-58-7 | Emulsifying agent | All kinds of cosmetics | 2%-8% | 2022/1/17 | Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd. |
| Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Skin protectant, humectant, antioxidant | All types of cosmetics, except lip products, oral hygiene products and spray products | ≤3% | 2022/1/24 | Yuyao Lifespan Health Technology Co., Ltd. |
| Polymethylsilsesquioxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate | 1402155-47-8 | Film Former | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤30% | 2022/1/25 | Grant Industries, Inc |
| Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer | 1176663-96-9 | Thickener | All kinds of cosmetics |
|
2022/2/16 | Clariant International Ltd. |
| Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone | 1126942-72-0 | Hair condtioner | Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair treatment and other hair care products | 10% | 2022/2/23 | Momentive (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd. |
| Chenopodium formosanum Extract | / | Skin protectant | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤0.7% | 2022/3/7 | Baiyuet Biotechnology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. |
Cosmetic companies looking to use the above twelve ingredients in cosmetic products can contact the notified companies for authorization. When using the new cosmetic ingredient, the cosmetic company shall also monitor the ingredient and report the safety status to the notified company within the 3 years.
Reference Link: ChemLinked
