As of August 2024, the number of new cosmetic ingredient notifications in China surged to 64, approaching the total for all of 2023.

This sharp increase reflects the industry’s robust momentum under the updated regulatory framework. In this analysis, REACH24H’s cosmetic team provides a detailed review of the developments and unique characteristics of new ingredient notifications in 2024.

Introduction to New Cosmetic Ingredient (NCI) Notifications in China

In China, a new cosmetic ingredient (NCI) refers to natural or artificial ingredients used for cosmetics for the first time in the territory of the People’s Republic of China, and its intended use method, application area, and use purpose are within the scope of cosmetics. Under the Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR), NCIs must undergo a pre-market application process—registration for high-risk ingredients (including preservatives, UV filters, colorant, hair-dyeing, freckle removing, and whitening ingredients), and notification for non-high-risk ones.

Registrants must ensure safety monitoring for three years post-approval, reporting usage and safety data annually. Successful compliance results in inclusion in the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC), aligning with the latest regulatory standards.

Key Trends in New Cosmetic Ingredient Notifications in 2024

1. Accelerated Notifications and Doubling of New Ingredient Numbers

By August 2024, 64 new ingredients had been publicly notified, doubling the 31 recorded during the same period in 2023—a growth rate of 106%. This rapid increase has set a record pace, with the total for 2024 likely to exceed the 69 filings from 2023.

2. Broader Industry Participation

The number of participating companies continues to grow, with new entrants from the cosmetics, food, and pharmaceutical sectors. These cross-industry players often focus on multifunctional ingredients that can be applied in various fields.

3. Rise in Chinese Companies and Participation by Overseas Giants

By August 2024, 36 domestic companies had submitted notifications, an 89% increase compared to the same period in 2023.

Additionally, foreign companies continue to show strong participation in new ingredient notifications; multinational giants such as Croda, Ashland, Evonik, and Intercos among others, have also remained active in the market.

4. Acceleration in Notifications for Plant-Derived Ingredients

By the end of August, 25 plant-derived ingredients (including active ingredients discovered from plants) were notified in 2024, accounting for 39% of total notifications, already exceeding 2023’s total (17 ingredients). Botanee Group notified seven ingredients, representing about 28%, leading the plant-derived ingredient notification rankings.

5. Increased Application in Finished Products

By May 2024, 69 notified or registered new ingredients were used in 2,789 cosmetic products, representing an application rate of 44.8%(as of May 31st, 2024), —an increase from 40% at the end of 2023.

Regulatory Features Under CSAR

• Challenges for High-Risk Ingredients

Under China’s Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR), high-risk ingredients with functions such as preservatives, UV filters, colorants, hair-dyeing, freckle removal, and skin whitening ingredients require strict registration. As of August 2024, no high-risk ingredients have been registered under the new regulations.

A landmark in November 2024 was the approval of Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol (Thiamidol 630) by Beiersdorf Group—the first whitening ingredient approved under CSAR.

REACH24H Consulting Group, as a third-party compliance service provider, assisted Beiersdorf Group in successfully obtaining the registration approval. (Read more)

• Monitoring Period Not Concluded for Any Ingredient Yet

It is necessary to report the safe use of new ingredients every year during the 3-year monitoring period. The new cosmetic ingredients that have not had any safety issues for 3 years can be included in the IECIC. For new cosmetic ingredients with safety issues, the registration or notifications shall be revoked or the notification shall be canceled.

According to the NMPA website, while 4 new ingredients have completed their 3-year period, their status still shows “monitoring period,” indicating no new ingredients have yet successfully completed safety monitoring.

How REACH24H Supports You

Navigating China’s cosmetic ingredient and finished product regulatory landscape can be challenging. REACH24H offers tailored services to help you:

• Timely Notifications and Registrations: Streamline submissions with expert assistance to meet regulatory deadlines.
• Compliance with Ingredient Requirements: Successfully manage intricate regulations and reporting needs.
• Maximized Market Opportunities: Optimize ingredient usage and integrate seamlessly into the market for greater success.

Why Choose REACH24H for Your Cosmetic Regulatory Needs

With years of experience assisting over 1,000 global cosmetic companies, REACH24H provides effective regulatory solutions tailored to China’s cosmetic market. Our team ensures your products meet NMPA’s requirements and are ready for market entry without unnecessary delays.

For more information, contact us at customer@reach24h.com.