China NIFDC Consults on Three Test Methods for 72 Cosmetic Ingredients, Fragrance Components and Prohibited Colorants Included

Jul. 18th, 2022
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On July 8, 2022, China National Institutes for Food and Drug Control (NIFDC) launched a public consultation on three draft testing methods for 72 cosmetic ingredients, including 40 fragrance components24 prohibited colourants, and 8 hair perming agents. Cosmetic stakeholders can send suggestions to hzpbwh@nifdc.org.cn before July 31, 2022.

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1. Determination of Ethyl Acrylate and Other 39 Kinds of Components in Cosmetics


Regarding the determination of fragrance components, China has set national standards such as “GB/T 24800.9-2009 Determination of Citral, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Anise Alcohol, Cinammal and Courmarin in Cosmetics by Gas Chromatography Method” and “GB/T 24800.10-2009 Determination of 19 Flavors in Cosmetics by Gas Chromatography-mass Spectrometry Method”. However, it is found that these standards cannot fully meet the testing demand in practice, therefore this new method is developed.

This method aims to provide guidance for the identification and content determination of 40 fragrance components (see Table 1 below) in the perfume, powder, cream, emulsion, wax-based and liquid water-based cosmetics by Gas Chromatography-mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) method. Among these 40 components, 24 are allergens specified in EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 (EU Cosmetics Regulation), and the other 16 are prohibited fragrance components included in Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics 2015 (STSC 2015) and national standard “GB/T 22731-2017 Fragrance Compound”.

Table 1: The Basic Information of 40 Fragrance Components
Ref No. Ingredient Name CAS No.
1 Ethyl Acrylate 140-88-5
2 Methyl trans-2-butenoate 623-43-8
3 5-Methyl-2,3-hexanedione / Acetyl Isovaleryl 13706-86-0
4 Trans-2-heptenal 18829-55-5
5 Allyl Isothiocyanate 57-06-7
6 Dimethyl Citraconate 617-54-9
7 Diethyl Maleate 141-05-9
8 Benzyl Cyanide 140-29-4
9 4-Phenylbut-3-en-2-one 122-57-6
10 4-tert-Butylphenol 98-54-4
11 p-Hydroxyanisole 150-76-5
12 4-ethoxyphenol 622-62-8
13 Musk Ambrette / 4-tert-Butyl-3-methoxy-2,6-dinitrotoluene 83-66-9
14 Diphenylamine 122-39-4
15 7-Methoxycoumarin 531-59-9
16 7-Ethoxy-4-methylcoumarin 87-05-8
17 d-Limonene 5989-27-5
18 Linalool 78-70-6
19 Methyl 2-octynoate 111-12-6
20 Citral 5392-40-5
21 Citronellol 106-22-9
22 Geraniol 106-24-1
23 Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone 127-51-5
24 Benzyl Alcohol 100-51-6
25 Hydroxycitronellal 107-75-5
26 Cinnamal 104-55-2
27 Butylphenyl Methylpropional 80-54-6
28 Eugenol 97-53-0
29 Amyl Cinnamal 122-40-7
30 Anisyl Alcohol 105-13-5
31 Cinnamyl Alcohol 104-54-1
32 Farnesol 4602-84-0
33 Isoeugenol 97-54-1
34 Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde 101-86-0
35 Coumarin 91-64-5
36 4-(4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde 31906-04-4
37 Amyl Cinnamyl Alcohol 101-85-9
38 Benzyl Benzoate 120-51-4
39 Benzyl Salicylate 118-58-1
40 Benzyl Cinnamate 103-41-3

2. Determination of CI 59040 and Other 23 Kinds of Components in Cosmetics


Currently, the testing methods targeted at prohibited colourants in hair dyeing products are quite limited in China. Only one method for CI 42510 and CI 44045 is specified in STSC 2015. With the aim of filling the gap, this testing method is devised, stipulating the determination of 24 prohibited colourants in hair dyeing products by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC).

Table 2: The Basic Information of 24 Prohibited Colorants
Ref No. CI No. CAS No.
1 CI 59040 6358-69-6
2 CI 10020 19381-50-1
3 CI 45430 16423-68-0
4 CI 14700 4548-53-2
5 CI 45350 518-47-8
6 CI 14270 547-57-9
7 CI 45380 17372-87-1
8 CI 16185 915-67-3
9 CI 42053 2353-45-9
10 CI 42045 129-17-9
11 CI 42051 3536-49-0
12 CI 58000 72-48-0
13 CI 15880 6417-83-0
14 CI 45190 6252-76-2
15 CI 15800 6371-76-2
16 CI 11920 2051-85-6
17 CI 12010 6535-42-8
18 CI 45370 4372-2-5
19 CI 12085 2814-77-9
20 CI 44045 2580-56-5
21 CI 42510 632-99-5
22 CI 47000 8003-22-3
23 CI 60725 81-48-1
24 CI 61565 128-80-3

3. Determination of Thioglycolic Acid and Other 7 Kinds of Components in Cosmetics


This method introduces the determination of eight hair perming agents in cosmetics by HPLC, including Thioglycolic Acid. It is developed to replace the method specified in STSC 2015 for the determination of Thioglycolic Acid. Compared to its predecessor, the new method is further optimized to deal with samples with different properties, and is applicable to six more Thioglycollic Acid Esters, covering those newly appear in cosmetics registration and notification, as well as those listed in the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC) and EU Cosmetics Regulation.

Table 3: The Basic Information of 8 Hair Perming Agents
Ref No. Ingredient Name CAS No.
1 Thioglycolic Acid 68-11-1
2 Glyceryl Thioglycolate 30618-84-9
3 Methyl Thioglycolate 2365-48-2
4 Dithiodiglycolic Acid 505-73-7
5 Ethyl Thioglycolate 623-51-8
6 Isopropyl Thioglycolate 7383-61-1
7 Butyl Thioglycolate 10047-28-6
8 2-Ethylhexyl Thioglycolate 7659-86-1

Reprinted from: ChemLinked

Reference Links


  1. Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics 2015 (STSC 2015)
  2. GB/T 22731-2017 Fragrance Compound
  3. Determination of Ethyl Acrylate and Other 39 Kinds of Components in Cosmetics
  4. Determination of CI 59040 and Other 23 Kinds of Components in Cosmetics
  5. Determination of Thioglycollic Acid and Other 7 Kinds of Components in Cosmetics
  6. GB/T 24800.9-2009 Determination of Citral, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Anise Alcohol, Cinammal and Courmarin in Cosmetics by Gas Chromatography Method
  7. GB/T 24800.10-2009 Determination of 19 Flavors in Cosmetics by Gas Chromatography-mass Spectrometry Method
  8. Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC)

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